Made by hand in Hawaii

All components made in USA

Please contact me through email or the contact portal if you are an international customer, or if you would like a custom order.

LanceLures1@gmail.com

How do I use Lance Lures commercial-grade trolling handlines?

- Clip the 316 stainless carabiner to a cleat, u-bolt, or other very sturdy hardware. Ensure that the point that you choose to clip the carabiner to is at or below the level of the gunnel to avoid potential recoil. We suggest using a breakaway float system (detailed later). Unravel the remaining paracord from the spool and ensure that the snap swivel end of the line is separated from the rest of the loose paracord at all times. This will prevent any tangles.

- At this point, attach the leader of your lure to the snap swivel and deploy the lure out of the back of the boat, with the boat moving forward.

-Loop a heavy-duty rubber band onto the paracord as close to the swivel as you can. Now loop the other end of the rubber band onto the carabiner. You may require multiple rubber bands based upon lure size and trolling speed. This will act as a low-intensity shock absorber and an audible strike indicator when the rubber band snaps. We recommend Alliance #105 or #107 for trolling lures, and #64 for slow trolling live bait.

-When a fish bites, the rubber band should break, making a loud “POP” to alert the angler. Alternatively, you may run the handline from an outrigger either with or without the rubber band as the rigger clip should also make an audible strike indicator.

-Allow the black rubber shock absorber to fight the fish until it is safe enough to grab the paracord with gloved hands, then bring the fish to the boat.

-You may adjust the paracord to a shorter length, but lengths shorter than 50 ft may result in increased recoil when using the 3 ft rubber shock absorbers. The recoil reduction mechanism relies upon friction braking from hydrostatic resistance of the water on the paracord. The 1 ft rubber shock absorber version can use as short of a piece of paracord as you like.

Why use trolling handlines versus rod and reel?

-There are advantages to each. The main difference is the fact that reels have a drag system that allows line to be pulled out of the reel at a set level of resistance. Our 100 ft handlines employ a rubber shock absorbency system, stretching from 3 ft out to 10 ft for a maximum of 120 lb resistance before bottoming out. There is a 1500 lb line on the inside, so it will not break. This amount of force will typically result in a very solid hookset and a short fight. Lance Lures handlines can be used to target species from 1 lb up to 50+ lb, and can be trolled at a variety of speeds. We have caught up to 80 lb ahi using these handlines. They are small enough to fit several of them in a backpack and can be easily stored in a jetski.

- Our handlines cost about 1/10 the price of a properly outfitted 50-wide conventional trolling setup.

-One of the primary advantages of using a commercial handline is that you can get fish in the boat quickly. This should allow you to get back to the school and catch more fish while they are biting. 15-25 lb fish can typically be swung into the boat in less than a minute. Even large fish will often end up skiing on the surface and you can pull them right up to the boat in short order. Since you can be confident that you got a solid hook-set, smaller fish can be swung directly into the fishbox. BE CAREFUL as the fish is still green and may violently thrash around. Get your hook out later and snap on another Lance Lures Plumbus.

Won’t the hook pull out of the fish’s mouth with a handline?

Not typically. In our experience, handlines result in a very secure hookup. The shock absorbency, combined with very strong resistance will force the fish to the surface and you can oftentimes ski the fish right to the boat very quickly.

Keep the line tight! As with any fishing, any slack will give the fish the opportunity to throw the hook.

Can anyone use a handline?

Handlines are not for everyone. Ours are designed for commercial use and are very strong. A good test to see if your hands are strong enough is to crimp some 100 lb test mono to your trailer hitch and the other end as a loop. Tie a long length of paracord to the crimped loop of mono. With gloved hands holding a single loop of paracord, pull on the paracord until the mono breaks. Continue to go up in lb test mono to see what leader you are comfortable with.

You must always be able to let the line go.

I would suggest watching a video on leadering marlin before using a handline.

Can I use a handline on a sailboat?

- Absolutely! We suggest trolling two or three of our handlines. This can be done on any boat.

• One rigged long, with a surface-running lure (150-200 ft). The longest line works well with a heavy-duty bird or other teaser that your leader can snap to. A bird both serves as a fish attractor, as well as keeping the long line pulled tight and away from the other lines. Plumbus HS, Plumbus X, chrome jet heads, slant heads, squid chains, spoons, and even deep running lures will work well.

• One rigged shorter with a heavy deep-running lure in close (75-100 ft). Plumbus HS, Plumbus C, Plumbus X, chrome jet heads, Marauders, and Nomads are highly recommended.

• Another can be trolled in closer at about 50 feet.

• Beware of trolling heavy lures in shallow water. We recommend trolling lightweight lures such as spoons behind a bird teaser to prevent the lures from sinking to the bottom at low speeds.

What if a very large fish bites?

-let’s be honest, there is no stopping a 200 lb marlin. In areas where there is even a possibility of very large predatory fish biting, we suggest employing a breakaway float system. Crimp a loop of 250 lb mono to your cleat and attach the stainless carabiner to it. Also attach a float line to the carabiner with at least one 18 inch vinyl boat buoy or large bumper. Make sure that the whole system can be pulled into the water without snagging on the outboards or any other equipment.

- More often than not, the fish will not break the breakaway system. Allow the black rubber shock absorbency system to fight the fish until you can grab the paracord with gloved hands. Maintain your ability to allow the fish to pull the line from your hands when it takes a run, and completely drop the line if you must. Similar to big-game fly fishing, we suggest using a stripping bucket or other receptacle to allow the line to fall into, rather than allowing it to fall onto the deck.

Why white paracord?

- White paracord has minimal visibility when fish are looking up against the light blue or white cloudy sky. This is why most fish have white bellies. Conversely, it has excellent visibility for the fisherman to see exactly where the line is from above. We use high-quality American-made 550 lb test type-III paracord, extremely tough and soft to the hands. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES!!!

How do I avoid tangles?

- The best advice we can offer is to keep the carabiner clipped to the cleat or breakaway system and the swivel end separate from the pile of paracord. As long as the swivel end stays separated, you can pile up the paracord on the deck without risk of knots. In the case that you do get a knot, immediately take the time to untie it before a fish pulls it tight.

- The safest route is bunching up the line into a stripping bucket as you pull it in. Similar to fly-fishing line management.

Can I use a handline on my kayak or jet ski?

-Yes, but keep in mind that these are commercial grade and very strong. I would suggest 100 lb leader or less to minimize the risk of snapback or capsizing if you are on a kayak. The 50 foot version is better suited to kayaks and jet skis as it has a 1-foot shock absorber, rather than the 3-foot shock absorber on the 100 ft version which could have potentially dangerous recoil.

Are the handlines only for trolling?

- Handlines can be highly effective for chunk-baiting or live-baiting when the fish are right behind the boat. The advantage to using a handline is the fact that you can get the fish in the boat in a fraction of the time of a conventional rod and reel. If you hook a fish that is too strong to safely maintain a hold on the paracord with gloved hands, then maintain tension on the line as you allow the fish to swim away and pull out all of your remaining line. At this point, allow the rubber segment to absorb the shock until the fish is tired enough for you to fight it the rest of the way in by hand. Gaff, or simply swing the fish into the fish box, undo the snap swivel, and snap on a fresh leader. For mahi-mahi or cobia, we typically use 6 ft 200-250 lb mono leaders with a crimped loop on one end and an 8/0 Mustad salmon hook crimped on the terminal end. Always keep numerous leaders ready to go.

How do I maintain my handline?
STORE OUT OF THE SUNLIGHT! Ozone can also break down natural latex rubber, so storing in an airtight bag is best.

Always rinse down your handline after each use, taking care to ensure the swivels have been thoroughly cleaned. You may oil the swivels using 3 in 1 oil periodically. Maximize the life of your latex tubing by conditioning it with 303 aerospace protectant. You can expect the handline to last 3+ years unconditioned, and 5+ years with frequent 303 conditioning. Putting the handline rubber in a bag in the refrigerator or freezer is recommended for long-term storage.

How do I rig a Plumbus?

We recommend rigging our 20.5 oz, 21 oz Plumbus with 9/10, and 25 oz Plumbus with 10/0 heavy-duty trolling hooks. Our smaller 9.5 oz, and 10 oz Plumbus lures are more suited for a heavy-duty 2x or 3x 4/0-6/0 single or double hook. We do not suggest rigging with larger hooks as our lures have a relatively narrow profile, and you want the hook to be hidden within the skirt for optimal presentation. A single hook is preferable over tandem hook rigs as these lures have lots of action, which may result in the skirt bunching up on the front hook of a tandem hook rig.

All Plumbus lures are designed with a brass or stainless steel lumen and built-in chafe tubing that accommodates up to 500 lb leader. Using a lighter leader will always result in more strikes than a heavier leader.

How do I troll a Plumbus?

We believe our Plumbus lineup is the most versatile trolling lure on the market.

- Plumbus C 25 oz is designed primarily to run between 10 and 75 ft behind the boat as a propwash bait. It darts left and right and acts as a fantastic wahoo and marlin bait. Can be trolled from 1 to 13 kts.

-Plumbus HS (high speed) 21 oz is our most versatile lure. Troll it from 1 to 15 kts without any additional trolling weight. This lure was designed for wahoo (ono) trolling and is deadly for ahi, marlin, and other large offshore fish.

- Plumbus X 20.5 oz has more realistic action than any other skirted trolling lure on the market. When trolled between 7 and 10 kts, it takes on a beautiful erratic side to side and up and down action. The action typically resembles an “X” pattern, hence the name. This has been our most consistent bait for all offshore species, including wahoo, ahi, marlin, and mahi. It can also be trolled at slower speeds, but the best action occurs between 7 and 10 kts, depending upon the conditions.

- Try “BOMBING” a Plumbus! Conventional trolling, and even employing the use of planers still only covers the top of the water column. As most fishermen are aware, many strikes happen on the drop, or when retrieving a bait from the deep. Our Plumbus lures are extremely dense, with a solid lead head. Take advantage of this by trolling an area with no more than 3 lines out, staggering the baits. I like to run one at 50-75 ft, one at 100-150 ft, and one like 250-300 ft behind the boat. Deploy the lines and troll about 7-9 kts. Once the baits are over the intended structure or mark, turn the boat sharply nearly 180 degrees. The lines will go almost slack, but this allows them to fall at roughly 3-5 ft per second. When the lines come tight, the lures will rocket up from the deep, frequently resulting in a reaction strike. Be sure to keep the lines free from tangling on anything along the side of the boat. This is a deadly technique when you mark fish, cross a ledge, or run close to a FAD or other floating debris.

- Every Plumbus can even be slow-trolled as a weighted teaser to get your live bait down deep. In this case, simply rig the Plumbus on a length of heavy mono, with a swivel in the front and back. Crimp the front swivel to your mainline, and crimp about 10-30 ft of lighter fluorocarbon leader with circle hook onto the tail end swivel. This can be used with our handlines, but be sure to use a lighter rubber band as the strike indicator/shock absorber; this will prolong the life of your live bait.

- Plumbus can even be used for jigging on a slow troll for bottom fish such as stripers, halibut, amberjack, grouper, snapper, and endless other species. Even try rigging a large curly-tail or paddle-tail soft plastic to the hook for added action.

CAUTION WHEN USING HANDLINES!!

- SAFETY FIRST! ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES, AND NEVER WRAP AROUND YOUR HANDS.
- Beware of the potential for recoil when using shortened handlines.
- Always replace your handline when the rubber begins to show signs of dry-rot/cracking as your rubber may fail, potentially resulting in dangerous recoil and/or loss of fish.